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How to price custom resin commissions

Somebody has messaged you asking if you can make something a bit like the one on your grid but in their wedding colours, with their flowers in it, by the eleventh. This is how to put a number on that without discovering in week three that you're working for about six dollars an hour.

Updated

A commission is not your usual piece with a tweak

When you pour a stock piece you already know the mould, the colours, the timing and roughly how it'll turn out. A commission throws most of that away. You're making something once, you've never made it before, and there's a specific person waiting who has a picture in their head that you have never seen.

That uncertainty is the product. It's why custom work costs more, and it's the bit that gets left out of the price almost every time. Makers price the resin and the pigment and the mould, all the things you can hold, and then donate the forty messages, the three colour samples and the evening spent looking for dried cornflowers in exactly the right blue.

The hours a commission adds, on a piece you'd normally sell for $60
Messages and working out the design50 minutes, spread over about a week$16.67
Sourcing the specific inclusions25 minutes$8.33
The pour itself45 minutes$15.00
Sanding and finishing40 minutes$13.33
Photos, packing and postage admin20 minutes, and it is never less$6.67
Three hours of your time, at $20$60.00

Three hours. Half of it before you've mixed anything. If you quote that piece at your usual $60 you've covered your time and nothing else, which means your materials, your overhead and your actual profit have all come out of your own pocket. Custom work priced like stock work is a slow way to fund other people's gifts.

Quoting when the design doesn't exist yet

The hardest part is that people want a price before either of you knows what's being made. Give a firm number too early and you're stuck with it when the brief grows. Refuse to give any number and half of them go quiet, because they genuinely have no idea whether they're asking for a fifty dollar thing or a four hundred dollar thing.

A range fixes both problems. Tell them coastal pieces in that size usually land between $85 and $140 depending on the inclusions and the finish, and that you'll confirm once you know what's going in it. You've given them enough to decide whether to keep talking, and you haven't signed anything.

  1. Ask what it's for and when they need it, because a deadline is a price factor and a memorial piece is a different conversation from a coffee table.
  2. Give a range, not a number, and say plainly what would push it to the top of that range.
  3. Once you agree the design, send one written confirmation with the final price, what's included and the date.
  4. Treat anything asked for after that message as a new conversation rather than an adjustment.

Tip. Keep a note of what each commission actually took you, in hours, not in vibes. After five or six you'll be quoting from your own history instead of your own optimism, and your quotes will go up.

Deposits are normal, not rude

Taking money up front feels awkward the first few times, particularly when the customer is lovely and has sent three heart emojis. Take it anyway. A deposit is how you stop being the person who buys $60 of specialist moulds for a piece that quietly gets cancelled in a fortnight.

Half up front is the usual arrangement, with the balance before it ships. For a piece needing materials you'd never otherwise buy, ask for the full cost of those materials in the deposit, because those are the ones you can't recover if the whole thing evaporates.

Nobody has ever walked away from me over a deposit who was going to be a good customer. The ones who bristle at paying anything before seeing the finished thing are, with impressive reliability, the same ones who go silent when the invoice arrives.

What a revision actually costs you

Resin isn't a drawing. You can't nudge the blue a bit once it's cured. A revision usually means pouring the whole thing again, which is fresh resin, another go at the mould, another two days of cure time and another evening of sanding.

So decide up front what's included and say so in the confirmation message. One round of changes at the design stage, before anything is poured, costs you almost nothing and makes people feel looked after. Changes after the pour cost you the entire piece, and that has to be either priced in or charged for.

  • Colour samples or a sketch before pouring, included, because this is where changes are cheap.
  • One reasonable tweak at the design stage, included.
  • A repour because they've changed their mind, charged at materials plus your time.
  • A repour because it genuinely came out wrong, on you, every time, without sulking about it.

Watch out. That last one matters. Bubbles, a soft cure or a bad demould are your risk, and covering them is what your failure allowance in the calculator is for. A maker who argues about their own mistakes gets no repeat customers and one long review.

Keepsakes and the risk you can't put a price on

Sooner or later somebody posts you their wedding bouquet, or their grandmother's handwriting, or their dog's collar. Keepsake work is some of the most rewarding resin you'll ever do and it carries a risk nothing else does, because if it goes wrong you cannot make another one.

Charge more for these. The resin doesn't cost you any extra, but you'll work slower, you'll test more, and you'll take a level of care that simply isn't possible on a batch of coasters. Somewhere between a third and half again on top of your usual custom price is normal, and people who've entrusted you with their mother's roses are rarely the ones haggling.

  • Say in writing what you can and can't promise, especially that flowers change colour as they dry and that this is the flower doing it rather than you.
  • Ask them to send photographs of the materials before posting, so you both know what arrived.
  • Suggest they hold some back if there's any way to, so a disaster isn't total.
  • Do a test pour with a spare bloom where the materials allow it.

Saying no, or saying a bigger number

Some commissions shouldn't be taken, and you can usually tell in the first three messages. The person who opens with what's your best price. The one who wants it in nine days when resin needs three of those just to cure. The one describing a piece that would take you eleven hours for a budget of eighty dollars.

You don't have to refuse outright. Quote the real number and let them decide. Half the time they say yes, which teaches you something useful about what your work is worth, and the other half they say no and you've lost nothing but a couple of messages. That's a much better outcome than four resentful weekends.

The one to actually turn down is the piece you can't make well. A commission that goes out wrong follows you around in photographs for years, and no fee makes that a good trade.

Work out your own numbers

Put your supplier prices into the resin calculator and it gives you your cost per piece, along with retail and wholesale prices built from it. Free, and no account needed.

Open the resin calculator →

Questions makers ask

Should I take a deposit for a custom resin order?
Yes, and half the total is standard. Take it before you buy anything specific to the job. If the piece needs moulds or inclusions you would never otherwise have bought, put the full cost of those into the deposit, because a cancelled commission leaves you holding materials you cannot use on anything else.
How do I quote a custom piece before I know the design?
Give a range rather than a number, and say what would push it towards the top. Something like eighty five to a hundred and forty depending on the inclusions and the finish lets the customer decide whether to keep talking without committing you to anything. Confirm the exact price in writing once the design is settled, and treat later additions as a fresh quote.
How many revisions should a commission include?
One round at the design stage, before anything is poured, and none afterwards. Changes are nearly free while you are still discussing colours and almost total while the resin is curing, since a revision after the pour usually means making the whole piece again. Say which is included in your confirmation message so nobody is surprised later.
Should custom work cost more than my ready-made pieces?
Considerably more, and mostly because of time you cannot see in the finished object. A commission adds the back and forth about the design, sourcing specific materials, a slower and more careful pour, and the fact that you only make it once so there is no batch to spread anything across. Pricing custom work like stock work is the most common way resin makers end up underpaid.
How should I price a keepsake piece with sentimental materials?
Add a third to a half on top of your usual custom price. Wedding flowers, ashes and handwriting cannot be replaced, so you will work more slowly, test more and carry a risk that does not exist on ordinary work. Put in writing what you can and cannot promise, particularly that dried flowers change colour on their own, and photograph everything on arrival.
Who pays if a commissioned piece fails during the pour?
You do, when it is your bubbles, your cure or your demould, and that is what a failure allowance in your pricing is for. If it fails because the customer changed their mind after you poured, that is a new piece at materials plus your time. The difference should be written down before you start rather than negotiated in the moment.
What should I put in a commission agreement?
One message is usually enough. The final price, what is included, the deposit and when the balance is due, the completion date, how many rounds of changes are covered, and a plain sentence about what happens if either of you cancels. It is not about being formal, it is about both of you remembering the same agreement six weeks later.

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